Athens, Greece
When it became clear I was going to start my journey by heading east to Europe 🇪🇺 in May instead of west to New Zealand 🇳🇿in January , I immediately knew I would start in Greece and, in particular, get to Athens. As the “cradle of democracy,” Athens beckoned to the history buff in me, and I had always enjoyed Greek mythology (including “Clash of the Titans,” starring a young Harry Hamlin⎯though that may have been for a different reason than my fondness for mythology 😋). But most of the things I heard about Athens⎯and Greece in general for that matter, with the exception of the islands⎯were not positive. In fact, people had me convinced that the Acropolis 🏛️ was the only thing worth seeing in Athens and that the city did not merit more than a day and a half.
WRONG! And thank goodness my itinerary on this trip is so flexible, because I ended up staying almost five full days. I arrived in the early evening and by the time I ventured out of my Booking.com (private) lodgings, shadows were falling. 🌃 My apartment⎯with a terrific view of Acropolis Hill from the balcony⎯was not in the nicest part of town, and it didn’t feel super safe. I put on my “city dweller” attitude, paid attention to who was walking behind or past me, and made sure I was never without an escape route. After grabbing some dinner, I returned to my digs⎯careful to unlock and enter quickly through the very solid door to the building⎯and thought: “My friends were right about Athens.”
But oh what a little sunshine can do! ☀️ The next day when I set out to explore by foot around noon (a thing I often do on the first day in a new location), the city was welcoming and seemed not dangerous at all. 🌆 For lunch, I grabbed a wrap from an Indian 🇮🇳 restaurant I had read about in a travel guide and ate it on their second floor balcony overlooking a major commercial thoroughfare (it was indeed delicious). Next, I caught the changing of the guard in front of the Hellenic Parliament in Syntagma Square. I’ve seen the Swiss Guard at the Vatican🇻🇦, the soldiers in front of Buckingham Palace 🇬🇧, and now the Greek soldiers in Athens 🇬🇷⎯and while the Swiss Guard has the most stylish uniform and the British soldiers have tremendous focus and stamina, I have to give it to the Greek soldiers on artistic merit. 😁 They engage in this very formalized and ritualistic march that almost looks like a slow choreographed dance. If one didn’t know better, you might think they were doing a send up of the Monty Python “silly walk.” And their uniforms only add to the whimsy and further reduce the intimidation. But I’m having trouble coming up with a military victory to which the Greeks significantly contributed in modern times, so perhaps it should be no surprise that their changing of the guard is “fierce” (like Sasha) but not fierce. 😝
Because of my late start, I got to the Museum of Cycladic Art too late to enjoy the work displayed there and instead made my way through Kolonaki⎯the swank shopping district in Athens⎯and up Lycabettus Hill. From there, an amazing view of the city is laid out below. I ran across a crew setting up and doing the sound check for a concert that night, which was really surreal because the unexpected music emerging from the forested area above made me feel like I was in a revival of “Brigadoon!” (again! ⎯ was in one in 1996 😝).
The sculptures on the pediments of the Parthenon (the triangles above the columns on either end) were originally colorfully painted. They are off-white today due to the erosion of the paint caused by the elements over the 2300+ years since the 4th century B.C.E.
After an “old school” hot dog (it was not of the Chicago School, but it was good nonetheless), I made my way to the Sky Bar on Lycabettus to enjoy a mojito and some cleverly packaged cocktail nuts along with the beginning of the sunset. 🌇 I set out for home base well before sunset but arrived well after it. (Note to self: DO NOT let your phone run out of juice if it’s your only map 🧭; it took me forever to find my way back).
I got up bright and early the next day to do the Acropolis, because I heard it is overcrowded as soon as the cruise ship passengers arrive. 🚢 I heard correctly. Between the throngs of people and the restoration work being done, it is difficult to really enjoy the ruins⎯or to get a good picture. 📷 Nonetheless, these ruins are so steeped in history and ultimately magnificent that one must visit them.
Equally important, in my view, is the Acropolis Museum, which sits right next door. Great information about the history of the ruins and a chance to get a close-up view of the friezes that circumscribe the Parthenon as well as replicas of a number of the statues/sculptures from the pediments (i.e., the triangle above the columns at either end). A must-see museum that I actually wish I had visited before touring the Acropolis itself, which would have made the stroll more informed and interesting.
These activities only took me through the (very full) day and a half most people had recommended, but I was far from finished with Athens! There’s so much more to tell, I’m gonna need to break this into two posts. Look for “Athens 2: Electric⚡️Boogaloo,” coming soon to a blog near you! 😁
Food for Thought: Share a story via comment about a city that surprised or you needed to give a second chance before appreciating.
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